Kamloops

The Surprise Desert

Kamloops catches Trans-Canada drivers off guard. You have been driving through mountain passes, dense forests, and river valleys, and then the landscape opens into something that looks like the American Southwest. Brown hills covered in sagebrush. Ponderosa pine scattered across dry slopes. Temperatures that hit 40 degrees Celsius in summer. Kamloops sits in the rain shadow of the Coast Mountains, and the result is a semi-arid climate unlike anything else on the Trans-Canada.

The city lies at the confluence of the North and South Thompson Rivers, in a broad valley that has been a natural crossroads for thousands of years. Today, three major highways converge here: the Trans-Canada (Highway 1), the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 5 to Jasper), and Highway 97 to the Okanagan. This makes Kamloops the hub of BC's interior highway network.

Why You Should Stop

Kamloops is not a tourist destination in the traditional sense. It does not have the mountain scenery of Revelstoke or the resort charm of Banff. But it is an extremely practical stop on the Trans-Canada, and there are legitimate reasons to spend a few hours or even an overnight here.

First, fuel. Kamloops has competitive gas prices compared to the mountain towns, and the next fuel stop heading west on Highway 1 toward Hope involves some long stretches. Heading east toward Revelstoke, you want a full tank before climbing into the mountains. Heading south on the Coquihalla toward Hope, there is no fuel for over 200 kilometres.

Second, food and supplies. Kamloops has everything: Costco, Walmart, Canadian Tire, every chain restaurant, and a growing local food scene. After days of highway gas station food, a proper meal here is restorative.

What to Do in Kamloops

If you have a few hours:

• Riverside Park: A pleasant green space along the Thompson River in the city centre. Good for a walk and a stretch after driving.
• Kamloops Wildlife Park: A 25-hectare wildlife park and zoo featuring animals native to BC, including grizzly bears, cougars, and a miniature train. Good for families.
• Tranquille on the Lake: A former sanatorium site on the shore of Kamloops Lake, now accessible for walking and exploring. The abandoned buildings are atmospheric and the lake views are striking.
• Sun Peaks: If you have more time, Sun Peaks resort is about 50 minutes north of Kamloops. In summer it offers hiking, mountain biking, and golf. In winter, it is one of Canada's largest ski resorts.

The Coquihalla Decision

At Kamloops, westbound Trans-Canada drivers face a route choice. The Trans-Canada (Highway 1) continues west through Cache Creek and down the Fraser Canyon to Hope, then on to Vancouver. This is the scenic route, passing through Hells Gate, Lytton, and the dramatic Thompson and Fraser canyons. It is beautiful but slow, with steep grades and many curves.

The alternative is the Coquihalla Highway (Highway 5), which heads south from Kamloops directly to Hope. The Coquihalla is faster, straighter, and less scenic. It is the route most people take if they are trying to get to Vancouver efficiently. There is a toll-free stretch now (the toll was removed in 2008), but be aware that the Coquihalla has some of the most dramatic elevation changes of any highway in BC, including the notorious Snowshed Hill.

Wildfire Country

Kamloops and the surrounding region are in the heart of BC's wildfire zone. The 2023 wildfire season devastated communities near Kamloops, and fires are a recurring reality in this dry landscape. If you are driving through in July, August, or September, check BC Wildfire Service for active fires and the Air Quality Health Index. Smoke can be thick enough to obscure visibility and cause respiratory problems. Highway closures due to fire are possible and sometimes last for days.

Practical Information

Kamloops has comprehensive services. Major fuel stations line the Trans-Canada corridor through town, including Petro-Canada, Shell, and Costco gas (with Costco membership). The Columbia Street exit area has the densest cluster of hotels and restaurants. There is a hospital, and cell coverage is excellent throughout the city.

From Kamloops, Revelstoke is about 280 km east on Highway 1 (3 hours). Hope is about 275 km west via the Coquihalla (3 hours) or about 340 km via the Fraser Canyon (4-5 hours). Vancouver is roughly 350 km via the Coquihalla (4 hours).