Thunder Bay

Why Thunder Bay Matters on the Trans-Canada

Thunder Bay is the largest city between Sudbury and Winnipeg, and that alone makes it significant. But the Lakehead, as locals call it, is far more than a fuel stop. This is a city with genuine character, built on Finnish immigration, grain shipping, and a fierce relationship with Lake Superior. If you have been grinding through northern Ontario's endless boreal forest, Thunder Bay feels like arriving somewhere.

The city sits at the head of Lake Superior, split between the former cities of Port Arthur (the north side, with the older downtown and waterfront) and Fort William (the south side, more commercial). Most travellers stick to the Port Arthur side, and that is the right call. The waterfront at Prince Arthur's Landing is genuinely beautiful, with views of the Sleeping Giant formation across the harbour.

Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

The Sleeping Giant is that massive mesa formation you see from the waterfront, lying across Sibley Peninsula like a figure on its back. The provincial park that surrounds it is one of Ontario's best, with over 100 kilometres of trails and 200 campsites. The signature hike is the Top of the Giant trail, a challenging 22-kilometre return trip that rewards you with views straight down Lake Superior's cliffs. It is not a casual walk. Budget a full day, bring water, and do not attempt it in poor weather.

The Sea Lion rock formation is a shorter option at 2.6 kilometres out and back. It sits on the eastern shore and makes for a solid afternoon if you do not have time for the full Giant hike.

Finnish Culture and the Pancake You Cannot Skip

Thunder Bay has the largest Finnish population outside of Finland, and this heritage shapes the city in ways you will notice. The Bay and Algoma district downtown has Finnish-influenced shops, saunas, and the food that every Trans-Canada traveller talks about: Finnish pancakes.

These are not like regular pancakes. They are thin, oven-baked, slightly custardy, and served with jam or fruit. The Hoito, established in 1918, was the traditional home of Finnish pancakes in Thunder Bay and is potentially the oldest cooperatively owned restaurant in Canada. It has had some closures and relocations, so check whether it is operating at its Bay Street location or through pop-ups at the Thunder Bay Country Market.

Other options include Kangas Sauna, which serves Finnish pancakes and also has actual saunas on-site, and Niva's, a small homey spot that locals swear by.

Port Arthur Waterfront

Prince Arthur's Landing is the redeveloped waterfront area and it is worth a walk even if you only have an hour. The area includes public art installations, the Alexander Henry Museum Ship (a retired icebreaker you can board), Spirit Garden, and a tai chi garden. On a clear evening, the view of the Sleeping Giant from here is one of the best free sights on the entire Trans-Canada.

Kakabeka Falls

About 30 minutes west of Thunder Bay on Highway 11/17, Kakabeka Falls drops 40 metres over a shale cliff. It is nicknamed the Niagara of the North, which is an exaggeration, but the falls are genuinely impressive, especially in spring when the Kaministiquia River is running high. There is a well-maintained viewing platform and a short boardwalk trail. Good picnic spot.

Practical Information

Thunder Bay has everything you need: multiple grocery stores, Canadian Tire, Walmart, hospital, and every major fuel chain. There is a Flying J truck stop at Pass Lake just east of the city. If you are heading west, this is your last chance to stock up on supplies before the prairies.

For accommodation, the Intercity area on Memorial Avenue has the densest cluster of hotels and restaurants. The Victoria Inn is the local standard for mid-range stays. Budget travellers should look at the hostels or Sleeping Giant campground.

Merla Mae Ice Cream

While we are on food: Merla Mae is a Thunder Bay institution and has been since 1956. It is a walk-up ice cream stand on Court Street with enormous portions. If you are passing through in summer, the line is long and it is worth it.

Getting Through Thunder Bay on the Trans-Canada

The Trans-Canada splits at Thunder Bay. Highway 17 continues west through Nipigon and along the north shore of Lake Superior toward Sault Ste. Marie if you are heading east, or toward Kenora and Manitoba if heading west. Highway 11 heads north toward Nipigon and eventually Hearst and Cochrane. Most cross-country travellers stay on Highway 17 west through Nipigon, then continue to Kenora. The drive from Thunder Bay to Winnipeg is roughly 700 kilometres and takes about seven hours without stops.