Sault Ste. Marie

Sault Ste. Marie on the Trans-Canada

Everyone calls it "the Soo." This steel and shipping city sits at the rapids of the St. Marys River, where Lake Superior empties into Lake Huron, right on the U.S. border. For Trans-Canada drivers, the Soo is a natural break point. Coming from the east, you have been on Highway 17 through Sudbury and the Canadian Shield. Heading west, you are about to enter the most dramatic and isolated stretch of highway in Ontario: the Lake Superior coastline toward Wawa and Thunder Bay.

The city is bigger than most people expect. It has a functioning downtown, a waterfront boardwalk along the river, and enough services that you can resupply properly before the long drive north.

Agawa Canyon Tour Train

This is the main attraction and it deserves the reputation. The Agawa Canyon Tour Train is a full-day scenic rail excursion that takes you 183 kilometres north into the Canadian Shield wilderness. The train runs from roughly August 1 through October 10, with the peak experience in late September to early October when the fall colours are at their most intense.

The total trip takes about 10 hours. You get a 90-minute stop at Agawa Canyon Park, where you can hike gravelled trails to Bridal Veil Falls and Black Beaver Falls, or climb over 300 stairs to a lookout perched 250 feet above the canyon floor. The views from the top are worth every step.

Book tickets well in advance for September and October dates. The train sells out. If you are driving the Trans-Canada and can time your trip to include this, it is one of the best single-day experiences available anywhere on the highway.

The Soo Locks and International Bridge

The Soo Locks are on the American side in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, and they are one of the most important pieces of infrastructure in North America. They lift and lower ships between Lake Superior and Lake Huron, handling more tonnage than the Panama and Suez Canals combined. You can watch the locks operate from a free viewing platform on the U.S. side.

The International Bridge connects the two Sault Ste. Maries. If you have a passport and the border wait is reasonable, crossing to the American side for a few hours to see the locks is worthwhile. The bridge toll is modest. Keep in mind that border wait times fluctuate, and the crossing can be slow on summer weekends and holidays.

Lake Superior Provincial Park

About 90 minutes north of the Soo on Highway 17, Lake Superior Provincial Park is the real scenic highlight of this region. The park stretches along the Lake Superior coastline and includes Agawa Bay Campground, the Agawa Rock Pictographs trail, and some of the most beautiful beaches in Ontario.

The Agawa Rock Pictographs are ancient Ojibwe paintings on a cliff face accessible by a short but somewhat challenging trail that involves scrambling along a rocky ledge above the lake. Only attempt it in calm weather; when the lake is rough, the trail is dangerous. The pictographs themselves are hundreds of years old and are considered sacred.

Pancake Bay Provincial Park

Between the Soo and Lake Superior Provincial Park, Pancake Bay has one of the best sand beaches on Lake Superior. The water is cold, but on a hot summer day people swim. The campground here is popular and fills up fast. It is only about 75 kilometres north of the Soo, making it an easy first-night camp if you are heading up the coast.

The Edmund Fitzgerald Connection

The SS Edmund Fitzgerald sank in Lake Superior in November 1975, and the Soo area is closely connected to that story. The ship passed through the Soo Locks on its final voyage. You can hike the Edmund Fitzgerald Lookout Trail in Lake Superior Provincial Park for views of the same waters where the ship went down. For many Canadians, this stretch of Superior carries a weight that goes beyond scenery.

Practical Information

Sault Ste. Marie has full services: hospital, grocery stores, Canadian Tire, several fuel stations at the west end of town that can accommodate large vehicles and RVs. The Great Northern Road strip has most of the chain hotels and restaurants. For something more local, try the downtown waterfront area along Queen Street.

If you are coming from Sudbury, the drive is roughly 300 kilometres on Highway 17 and takes about 3.5 hours. Heading north to Wawa is another 230 kilometres and about 2.5 hours. The road hugs the Lake Superior coast and is one of the most beautiful drives in Ontario, but it is also winding, with limited passing opportunities and frequent moose warnings.