Sudbury

Sudbury on the Trans-Canada

Sudbury is the largest city in northern Ontario and sits at a major crossroads. Highway 17 (the Trans-Canada) passes through on its way between Ottawa and Sault Ste. Marie. Highway 69/400 connects south to Toronto and Barrie. For most cross-country drivers, Sudbury is either the first real northern Ontario city you hit or your last before heading into the southern Ontario corridor. Either way, it has more going on than people expect.

The city was built on nickel mining, and that history is literally embedded in the landscape. A 1.85-billion-year-old meteor impact created the Sudbury Basin, and the mineral deposits left behind made this one of the richest mining regions on Earth. That same mining nearly destroyed the surrounding environment, but Sudbury's re-greening effort has become a global case study in ecological recovery.

The Big Nickel and Dynamic Earth

The Big Nickel is a 9-metre replica of a 1951 Canadian nickel and holds the title of world's largest coin. It sits on the grounds of Dynamic Earth, a science centre focused on mining and geology. Viewing and photographing the Big Nickel from outside is free, and that is frankly enough for most people passing through. It is the obligatory Trans-Canada selfie stop.

If you go inside Dynamic Earth, the highlight is the underground tour. You put on a hard hat and descend seven storeys into a simulated mine, walking through the evolution of mining technology from the turn of the century to modern day. There is even an underground post office where you can mail a postcard. Kids love it. Adults who think they will not be interested usually are.

Science North

Science North is Northern Ontario's most popular tourist attraction, and it earns that title. The building is literally built into a rock outcropping on the shore of Ramsey Lake, which tells you something about Sudbury's relationship with geology. Inside, four floors of interactive exhibits cover everything from live animal displays to an IMAX theatre. It is particularly good for families with children, but it holds up for adults too.

The facility regularly updates its exhibits, so even if you visited years ago, there will be something new. Plan for at least two to three hours if you go inside.

The Re-greening Story

This is the part of Sudbury that most guidebooks skip, and it is arguably the most remarkable thing about the city. A century of sulphur dioxide emissions from the nickel smelters and decades of logging stripped the landscape bare. By the 1970s, Sudbury looked like a moonscape: black rock, dead soil, no trees. NASA actually used the area for lunar rover testing because the terrain was so barren.

Starting in 1978, the city launched an aggressive re-greening program. Volunteers and city workers spread crushed limestone to neutralize the acid soil, then planted trees by hand. Over the decades, they have planted more than 10 million trees across the region. Today, Sudbury is green again. The lakes are recovering, wildlife has returned, and the city has won United Nations recognition for its environmental restoration.

You can see the evidence of this recovery throughout the city, particularly along the shores of Ramsey Lake and in Bell Park, a waterfront park with a two-kilometre boardwalk that is perfect for a stretch-your-legs walk.

The Highway Bypass Question

If you are not stopping in Sudbury and just want to get through, be aware that the Trans-Canada (Highway 17) now bypasses the city centre. The bypass routes you south of downtown, which is faster but means you will miss everything mentioned above. If you want to visit the Big Nickel or Science North, you need to exit into the city proper. It adds about 30 to 45 minutes to your drive, but for a first-time visitor it is worth the detour.

Practical Information

Sudbury has everything: full hospital, major retailers, multiple fuel stations, and a wide range of hotels and restaurants. The Kingsway strip has the densest cluster of chain hotels and fast food. For something more local, the downtown core along Durham and Elgin streets has independent restaurants and cafes.

From Sudbury, Sault Ste. Marie is about 300 kilometres west on Highway 17 (roughly 3.5 hours). North Bay is about 130 kilometres east (roughly 1.5 hours). Toronto is about 390 kilometres south on Highway 69/400 (roughly 4 hours).